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Schwa's Food: So Good It Makes You Forget About Interior Design

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Indiana resto-blogger Babelfish Tartare opines on the fundamental differences between dining at Alinea (which he hasn't done yet) and dining at Schwa (which he loves):

While I really appreciate what Grant Achatz is doing, and most importantly, his comprehension of food in general, I don't like what I've heard about the delivery. Even for me, 24 courses is an exhausting proposition, and while I could talk about food for days, five hours of quiet contemplation and discussion of progressive cooking techniques in a sterile, almost churchlike environment simply makes me want to stay home and watch "No Reservations." I have no doubt that Chef Achatz's food is incredible, really. But for me, it just doesn't seem very....well, fun.

Schwa, is like having a meal that is just as thought provoking, and presumably even as tasty, as that of Alinea, in an environment more akin to your college dorm room on steroids. In-wall air conditioner and furnace poking out, contrasting with two chrome mini-chandeliers hanging in garden windows that are covered with Value Village "lace" drapery, and an Ikea style wooden coat rack/art piece that all combine to imply that Michael Carlson could give a rats ass about interior design, and once we had our first taste of our grapefruit sorbet with black truffles, we didn't either.

Interestingly, the first reader comment is from alias "Grant." Wonder if it's that one...

Schwa La Land [Babelfish Tartare]
Schwa [MenuPages]
Schwa [Official Site]
Alinea [MenuPages]
Alinea [Official Site]

[Photo via Schwa/OS]

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2 Comments - Add yours

  • Is this where I list my bona-fides? Here? We, in fact, did the five-hour marathon at Alinea in December of 2007. And it was, in fact, quite long. There most certainly was a point of diminishing returns no matter what was put in front of us. And I think much of the diminishing returns came from the more proper and hush-hush atmosphere and 'playful for playful's sake' food. We spent the same amount of time at French Laundry in April and had a much better time. Less stuffy. And Schwa's decor is almost part of the experience. I might listen to an argument where it may be a little too intentional but upgrading that would take away some of the charm. And affect the best value along with the best food in town. It would be like Kuma's putting in a jukebox and letting the customers choose the music. Wrong is so many ways.

    By Christo P. Ney on 02/23/2009 at 5:17 PM

  • Just a sensible reminder to all readers: After the first bottle of wine, everything is fun.

    By Emilie on 02/23/2009 at 3:23 PM

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