Chicagoist's Chuck Sudo just called our attention to something very interesing. This past Friday, the Sun-Times' Pat Bruno reviewed the State St. location of Cafe Bionda. He loved the meatball salad, the zucchini and calamari appetizer, and the chicken cooked under a brick.
Sound familiar? Because, gracious us, Bruno also reviewed Cafe Bionda's Milwaukee Ave location last February. And, wouldn't you know it, he loved the meatball salad, the zucchini and calamari appetizer, and the chicken cooked under a brick.
Put on your detective hats, kids. Is something fishy here? We report, you decide:
On Joe's Mama Meatball Salad:
February '08
How could I resist trying "Joe's Mama Meatball Salad"? The tag line read "Sunday Salad." Putting together a meatball as big as a tennis ball with a romaine lettuce salad is not something you see every day, but it was one fine appetizer. Accolades, of course, to the meatball, which was truly terrific.March '09
And then there was "Joe's Mama Meatball Salad." The Joe in question is Joe Farina, chef/owner. This was not my first dance with this appetizer salad. I have had it at Ballo and Rosebud restaurants, but never tire of it, or the idea behind it. Pairing up on the same plate a meatball as big as a softball and a crispy salad might sound strange, but, trust me, it was quite enjoyable.
On the zucchini and calamari combo platter:
February '08 A combination plate of zucchini and calamari was fine. Big slices of crusted zucchini and tender rings of squid were served with two dipping sauces, aioli and marinara. Nothing out of the ordinary going on there, but quite pleasing.March '09
At Cafe Bionda, you will find Italian comfort food the likes of the zucchini and calamari combo appetizer. The cost was $10, and there was more than enough for two to share. The big planks of lightly breaded fried zucchini (tender and bordering on sweet) were wonderful. On the other side of the two cups filled with dipping sauces --marinara and aioli -- was a pile of fired calamari, the rings cut a bit thicker, but they were tender and light.
On the boneless brick-cooked chicken:
February '08
Whole boneless brick chicken was enough for two to share and then some. The chicken, splayed across a large oval platter, was meaty and marvelous. Herbs, lemon, garlic and white wine added to the flavor. Planks of rosemary-enhanced potatoes added to the enjoyment.March '09
One of the chicken dishes to consider is the pollo al mattone, or "whole boneless crispy brick chicken." The baby chicken is splayed, brushed with olive oil, weighted down and put on the grill. This method of cooking chicken results in an unusually crispy and flavorful skin that gives way to the natural moisture of the meat just below. Lemon and garlic were the flavor extras. Chunky rosemary potatoes, a bit on the dry side, were served alongside.
