The Perils of Novelty: Chicago Mag’s 22 Best New Restaurants

Chicago Magazine’s May issue (on newsstands now) loudly proclaims on its cover that it contains a list of the BEST NEW RESTAURANTS. Inside, the mag’s big hitters Dennis Ray Wheaton and Jeff Ruby run down twenty-two relatively new spots that have caught their fancy: like TOC, they hand the sparkling “best new restaurant” tiara to The Publican, and use the remaining 21 slots to namecheck basically every buzzworthy new open in the … well, the recent past. Some places on the list have been open for a few months; some for over a year. It’s a good list, with some great hits and just a few there-for-the-sake-of-their-newness misses.

Which brings us to a brief editorial digression: We don’t like the idea of a “best new” roundup. Best new individual places, fine: this has been a good year for Chicago restaurants, with newcomers like The Publican, Big Jones, Mado, and Mercat a la Planxa upping the ante for genre-driven cuisine. But the thing with an epic list of the “best new” is that you wind up rolling in the dazzlingly shiny along with the legitimately good — gloss and novelty drives crowds perhaps even more effectively than a killer menu. With that in mind, here’s a fun game: see if you can pick which of the restaurants on the ChiMag list will be closed (or at least, near deserted at 8pm on a Friday) before the end of 2009. We’re calling out eight of the 22 on the list — and no, we won’t tell. We’ll just watch quietly and maybe wind up feeling bittersweet smugness.

The complete list of Chicago Magazine’s Best New Restaurants, after the jump:

Chicago Magazine’s Best New Restaurants, 2008-9
Big Jones
C-House
Eve
Glen Prairie, Glen Ellyn
graham elliot
L2O
Mado
Mana Food Bar
Mercat a la Planxa
Mexique
Mixteco Grill
Park 52
Perennial
Piccolo Sogno
Province
The Publican
Sugartoad, Naperville
Sunda
Tocco
Topaz, Burr Ridge
Urban Belly
Veerasway

Most Delicious Wood-Fired Pizzas: Antica Pizzeria
Most Inventive Spin on Bruscetta: Osteria Ottimo, Orland Park
Best New Chef: Laurent Gras, L2O
Best New Dessert: Lemon Basil Cake, Eve
Spiciest Fish Tacos: Old Oak Tap
Best New Dish: Devil’s Basket of Soft Shell Crabs, Sunda
Tastiest Banh Mi: Bon Bon Vietnamese Sandwiches

[Photo of the dining room at Piccolo Sogno: Novelli Photos]

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The Perils of Novelty: Chicago Mag’s 22 Best New Restaurants