The Other Critics

The Other Critics: Redefined Greek at Taxim; Fianco a Surprise


Taxim “takes the concept of Greek cuisine as Chicagoans know it and turns it on its head.” The thick organic yogurt is the standout here: look for it everywhere from dessert to duck gyros. Oh, and don’t miss the lamb shank. [Chicagoist]

• Phil Vittel hits up Palatine’s Agio and gives it two stars. From the “simply outstanding” eggplant parmigiana to the delicious ribeye, most dishes are winners, though a few suffer from odd pairings (veal saltimbocca with a baked egg and broccoli side? really?). [Tribune]

• David Tamarkin is blown away by Lakeview’s Fianco, to which he bestows four stars. The shock of an excellent meal coming from a nameless chef in a generic strip mall is spectacular, with the milk-braised pork a particular standout. Prediction: “when people get hip to this food, they’re going to pounce, whether they like the surroundings or not.” [TOC]

[Photo: Flatbread at Taxim, ehfisher/Flickr]

The Other Critics: Redefined Greek at Taxim; Fianco a Surprise