Patrick Fahy Leaves French Laundry For Blackbird

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After spending a year at the foot of Thomas Keller and crew at Napa's French Laundry, where he was chef de partie, Patrick Fahy a vet of Bittersweet, the Ritz, and Canady le Chocolatier comes back to Chicago as the new head of pastry at Blackbird. (Fahy replaces Tim Dahl, whose move to Wisconsin we noted recently). "I think it's going to take me a little time to get used to all the changes," Fahy told Grub Street, pointing out that this is his first time heading up a pastry department. Still, he seems off to a strong start:

"I think of something that's in season, something that I really like," he explained when we asked about how he develops his dishes. "And then I think of different textures softness, creaminess, something crunchy, something cold, something warm, something sweet, salty, acidic. I try to really have all of those on each dessert, if possible." On the current dessert menu, Fahy's particularly fond of his sweet corn bavaroise. It's a cornbread pain perdu dressed with candied pecans, maple syrup sherbet, and a drizzle of Bliss maple syrup, which has been aged in bourbon barrels. And it's all up from here: "As I get more used to things," Fahy said, "it'll get better and better."