The Other Critics

‘Rubbles’ At Jam And Keefer’s; Nana’s Good Vibes

The scene at the Red Canary
The scene at the Red Canary Photo: The Red Canary

• Pat Bruno loves Jam, praising virtually everything he tasted, including the “Jamburger,” served with a “rubble of fries.” Oddly, because the place doesn’t serve dinner, he balks at calling it a “restaurant,” considers and discards “eatery,” and ultimately settles on nothing. Whatever you say, Bruno. [Sun-Times]

• Bruno is pleased to see chef John Hogan in the kitchen at Keefer’s, unlike all those celebrity chefs who “are connected to their restaurant in name only.” (This might be because Hogan is not, really, a celebrity chef). Food is good, though, and there’s that “rubble” again: mussels are “a rubble of black beauties.” Huge cuts of steak are served with fries that are good enough, though Bruno dismisses his criticism as “just me being picky.” (Well that, and it’s also your job.) [Sun-Times]

• There are still some bumps to be smoothed out at Nana, says David Hammond — service could be a little better — but the food is inventive (especially banana-buckwheat pancakes) and the vibe can’t be beat. [Reader, first item]

• Ann Spiselmen went into 33 Club with low expectations, which proved accurate for a weak caesar salad and fairly awful desserts. In between, it wasn’t quite that bad: the pork chop and roasted salmon were both cooked perfectly, though sides and accompaniments didn’t always work out well. [Reader, second item]

• Nothing really shines for Mike Sula at The Red Canary, where the focus seems to be on the scene more than the edibles. Overcooked sea scallops defeat the purpose of being “sushi-grade,” but the fries are “better than they need to be.” Faint praise, indeed. [Reader, third item]

‘Rubbles’ At Jam And Keefer’s; Nana’s Good Vibes