Is Edzo's The Closest Thing We've Got to In-N-Out Burger?

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When choosing between the two fresh-ground burgers on the menu at Edzo's (1571 Sherman Ave., Evanston, (847) 864-3396), the thin-patty griddled version and the thicker char-grilled one, the New York Times's Peter Meehan goes small: "the flatter, littler guy won me over, putting me in the mind of an In-and-Out Burger, to which Edzos favorably compares," Meehan writes, citing the patty's "fresh ruby sweetness that reminded me of the nibbles of raw beef my mom used to feed me from the counter when she brought home just-ground beef from the butchers." [The Moment/NYT]