The Other Critics

Trattoria Trullo vs. the Real Thing

The fundamental problem with any Pat Bruno review of an Italian restaurant is that the restaurant is up against Bruno’s perception of actual Italy. Poor Trattoria Trullo, then, whose impressive food has to wait until Bruno’s done with three paragraphs of plumage display before it gets its due, at which point Bruno orders the pollo alla parmigiana — that’d be chicken parm, for those of us murr’cans — which he loves! [Sun-Times]

Trattoria Trullo vs. the Real Thing