The Other Critics

Shouse Gives Cumin Four Stars; Nagrant Devours the Wings at Chinese Yum Yum

Cumin gets good grades.
Cumin gets good grades. Photo: Nick Kindelsperger

Heather Shouse exclaims that, “the wait is over” for good Indian food in Wicker Park, as Cumin’s opening means, “you can finally pick up some biryani with your gold American Apparel stretch pants.” She advises to stay away from the butter chicken, and try the “clean flavors” exhibited by the quick-cooked meat dishes from the Nepalese side of the menu. [TOC]

“Though restaurants with “yum yum”or “tasty” in their names rarely ever are,” Michael Nagrant finds the Chinese food at Chinese Yum Yum in the West Loop mostly good. The honey garlic chicken wings are the real find here, “On these alone, you could build a franchise.” [New City, first item]

Shabuka Indian Grill, “clearly doesn’t do bread,” but other than that Michael Nagrant believes that most of its other dishes are “as good as any version on Devon.” The beef masala is, “Fiery, tender and wafting cumin perfume.” Which makes Shabuka, “one of the better bets for quick-service Indian in Chicago.” [New City, first item]

David Tamarkin explores the differences between “homemade and housemade,” as the Piggery’s food, “has the quirks and inconsistencies of a mother’s cooking.” The meatloaf was, “overcooked and a bit leathery,” but the pulled pork sandwich was, “tender enough that the occasional bits of gristle go forgiven.” [TOC]

Shouse Gives Cumin Four Stars; Nagrant Devours the Wings at Chinese Yum Yum