Welcome to another round of Pat Bruno vs. the World. Last week he managed to adore a pizza that everyone else seemed to hate, and this week he decided to trash the most universally admired restaurant of the year. What gives Bruno? Instead of attacking the Girl & the Goat’s food, he goes for the grumpy old man route. You know, the smoke from the wood burning oven sneaks “into your clothing,” the shared plates are confusing, and its hard to talk above the “roar of the crowd noise.” Also, apparently someone was a little rude to him: “Here's the thing: I don't appreciate being practically laughed at or given the silent treatment when inquiring about a suggested day and time for a reservation.” And you don’t want to cross Bruno, because he’ll then predict that your establishment will become unpopular: “I say come January, you will be able to pick any time or day you wish should you care to eat there.” We should have known this was going to happen.
Last time Bruno had to eat at a restaurant with small plates he nearly lost it. In his review for the Bristol he spent the first two paragraphs talking about the noise, the communal tables, and how the restaurant had “its work cut out” if it wanted to stay open. “In addition to the noise, there is the elephant in the room known as cost vs. value. It has to do with that concept known as ‘small plates’ and ‘sharing.’” He doesn’t like it.
But his vitriol here seems a little extreme. He admits that the food “has some shining moments, but I am not about to get all gushy about it.” Instead, he decides to blame Izard. “I wonder if this is a case of being overhyped to the point of foolishness -- or embarrassment.” Really? The restaurant with the longest lines and some of the best reviews of the year is an embarrassment?
Girl & the Goat over the 'Top' [Sun-Times]