The Other Critics

Shouse Goes British at Owen & Engine; Zemans Heralds Slyce

Photo: Nick Kindelsperger

Heather Shouse finds a “sort of primal nostalgia for the past” at Owen & Engine. To be sure, it’s a proper British pub. There is “enough dark wood and amber sconces” to make “even ugly people appear beautiful.” Plus, the “massive haddock fillets” make the fish and chips “flaky and ethereal,” and not like the “half-assed fish-and-chips thrown out by pubs more suited for buffalo wings and mozz stix.” [TOC]

Daniel Zemans thinks that Slyce, which is located in nearby Wauconda, is the “new coal oven champion in town.” The “creamy house-made mozzarella and the fennel-heavy sausage” are “top notch.” And it’s all served on a “magnificent crisp and chewy crust.” [Serious Eats]

Though David Tamarkin thinks it’s a little odd that the Saigon Sisters would open a new outlet a block from their first location, the food is “delicious enough to distract me from my question.” The lobster fritters are “a wonder,” with a “crumb-coated lobster that retains its tenderness. [TOC]

Shouse Goes British at Owen & Engine; Zemans Heralds Slyce