The Other Critics

Vettel Gives Longman & Eagle 2 Stars; Pang Searches for Po’ boys

The good news for Longman & Eagle keeps coming.
The good news for Longman & Eagle keeps coming. Photo: Nick Kindelsperger

Phil Vettel finally gets around to Longman & Eagle, dropping an impressive two stars on the Logan Square gastropub. Though “far too noisy,” the food—especially the small plates—are “ uniformly terrific.” He loved the “Seared foie gras” with “warm, soft gingerbread,” which was enlivened with the “bright notes from five-spice mustard sauce and pickled shallots.” Even the “conscientious crew” and bussers were “on the ball.” [Trib]

Kevin Pang went on a po’ boy binge, eating at ten local restaurants in the hope of replicating the magic he experienced in New Orleans. Only three made the cut. Heaven on Seven and Mac & Min’s were both solid. But it’s the newcomer, Le Fleur de Lis, which offered a “straight-no-chaser rendition,” and nailed “its execution.” Though the fries were “limp and soggy,” everything else “textually was a 10.” [Trib]

Pat Bruno checks in with Kith & Kin after the original chef was fired. He loves the crocks, especially the chicken liver pate, which was “smooth, cream-rich, nicely seasoned and quite delicious.” Though the tagliatelle with the braised rabbit ragout was “cut a bit wider than most tagliatelle,” he “loved texture and tenderness of this house-made pasta.” [Sun Times]

Calling it “definitely a must-try,” Bruno makes his introduction to the Korean taco trend at Del Seoul. “When done right,” he says, “it is really quite delicious.” His favorite is the chicken BBQ taco, which is both filling and affordable: “It’s fast food cheap, not cheap food fast.” [Sun-Times]

Vettel Gives Longman & Eagle 2 Stars; Pang Searches for Po’ boys