John Mariani has never been much of a fan of molecular gastronomy, so its no huge surprise that he would take the occasion of the release of both Grant Achatzs Life, on the Line, and Nathan Myhrvolds epic Modernist Cuisine, to launch into a very spirited attack on the whole enterprise in Esquire. Some of his points are fascinating, including the idea of what influence the style of cooking has had for home cooks. Others are less so, especially when he compares molecular/avant-gardiste chefs to Dan Aykroyds Saturday Nigh Live skit about the Super Bass-O-Matic 76. But whats perhaps most interesting about the whole thing is just how much time he spends attacking the insufferable Achatz. What has him all fired up? Well, it turns out Achatz accused Marinani of stealing Alineas very expensive wine list. He, of course, denies it. We suppose well never quite know the truth, but this isnt the first time Mariani has been accused of something from a prominent chef or writer. In fact, weve collected a list of our five favorite examples.
The reason for the recipe is simply that I like to have a cocktail made to my request but, more important, so the owner and chef know where to reach me, send me info, menus, announcements, jpegs, etc. I do not brandish it in an attempt to scare them into giving me free food.
Let me state this as clearly as I can: In more than 25 years of writing for Esquire, I NEVER, not once, ever called a restaurant or sent demands for a free meal or how I wished to be treated. NEVER...These lies occasionally rear their ugly head in the unfettered land of blogs.
We dined and there was no check, but I left a $100 tip. Ruhlman did not leave one penny, yet, while never informing me he was taking notes, later wrote I did not pay for the meal. He neglected to mention that he didnt either.
...don't publishers pass authors' trash by libel lawyers anymore?
He stole Alineas very expensive and heavy wine list
Accused by: Nick Kokonas in Life, on the Line
[The wine list] is the last thing I would want to lug around in my suitcase. This is an absurd charge wholly denied by an editor friend who dined with me that night and by Alinea's own publicist, Jenn Galdes, whom Kokonas has credited with doing an "amazing job" of publicity. The only thing I asked for that evening was a souvenir menu, as many of Alinea's guests do.
My Grant Achatz Problem and Yours [Esquire]