The Other Critics

Gebert Goes Flavor-Tripping at iNG; Zemans Returns to Home Run Inn

iNG's Baozi Buns
iNG’s Baozi Buns Photo: Nick Kindelsperger

Though Mike Gebert thinks that Homaro Cantu’s iNG “tries too hard” sometimes with the Miracle Berry tasting menu, “you’ve still made more out of this meal than it would have on its own in a more conventional restaurant.” Some dishes, like the “meltingly tender” baozi, work with the pill, but others, like the miso-black cod, become “downright candy-coated under the Berry’s influence.” Still, the Miracle Berry manages to turn a “pleasant meal into a mindbender.” [Sky Full of Bacon]

As a part of Serious Eat’s Chicago Essential series, Daniel Zemans revisits Home Run Inn. Though the company’s frozen pizzas are “merely one of the better pizza options in grocery store freezers,” “it should surprise absolutely nobody” that the restaurant’s own version is better. He found that the addition of garlic butter crust is the “key to a particularly successful pizza there.” [Serious Eats]

Though there are a few misfires, Pat Bruno believes you can “bank on the food at The Bedford.” The bone-in, Gunthorp Farm pork chop was “excellent in that it was cooked to perfection (not the least bit dry) right down to the bone.” The mussels were also “excellent,” especially the “tasty nectar” they were served in. The only thing that didn’t impress him was the gnocchi, which was “too fat” and “too gummy.” [Sun Times]

Gebert Goes Flavor-Tripping at iNG; Zemans Returns to Home Run Inn