Nagrant's off, Vettel does an al fresco roundup, and Sula was busy with Reader Best-Ofs, so it's a good week to get attention as a restaurant reviewer. The only big daily/weekly names on the job this week were Time Out's, and David Tamarkin gives three stars to Red Door for the easygoing pleasure of eating Troy Graves' food on the former Duchamp patio: "The menu at Red Door appears at a glance to be pretty heavy—steaks, sloppy joes, poutine—and in addition to enjoying the nice weather, I thought being outdoors would provide an airiness I might not find on the plate. But that poutine, layered with chicken confit and spiked with curry, was not nearly as heavy as poutine can get. And some dishes, such as an oyster ssam that paired the crisp seafood with fiery kimchi, and a meaty chicken thigh swathed with lemongrass, were light, bright and summery. When less successful food came to the table, it wasn’t heaviness that was the problem but rather execution: A burger with bacon jam arrived joyless and overcooked. A hanger steak badly needed salt." He says Red Door's set for now, but "the place seemed to be letting the pleasant patio do all the heavy lifting... eventually it’s going to get cold out—what’s Red Door going to do then?" [TOC]
