Posts for June 27, 2012

Was Ist Das Currywurst? Und Wo?

A variant from the Christkindlmarkt.

Have you ever had currywurst? You can find it at the Christkindlmarkt in Daley Plaza around the holidays; we've also seen it in at least one Polish restaurant on the northwest side, and you can buy curry-flavored brats at Paulina Meat Market. But it's certainly rare in these parts compared to Europe. Why is that? Food Detective David Hammond explores this question fresh from a currywurst-filled trip to Berlin and finds a fascinating story. We would have guessed that it came with immigration from spicier places, the way doner kebab came with Turkish guest workers (or chicken tikka came with Pakistanis to England), but in fact the answer is right out of a Fassbinder film from the 1980s. In the rubble of WWII, a woman named Herta Heuwer (played, in our imaginary movie, by Hanna Schygulla) trades booze to Allied soldiers for curry powder, and starts serving curry-sausages to the local red-light-district denizens (Barbara Sukowa, Ivan Desny).

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Meet Dwight Henry, the Baker Who Wound Up in the Year’s Breakout Indie Film

Mr. Henry, left, in Beasts of the Southern Wild.Photo: Fox Searchlight

Showbiz breaks come in all forms. For Dwight Henry, the owner of the Buttermilk Drop Bakery & Café in New Orleans's Seventh Ward and star of the new film Beasts of the Southern Wild (opening today in New York and Los Angeles), the break wasn't just unexpected; it totally upended his life.

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Publican Quality Meats to Launch Sunday BBQs July 8

Because you just can't get enough of Publican Quality Meats and neither, apparently, can they, they're launching a series of Sunday BBQs in the parking lot behind the shop. Chefs Chris Kuziemko and Erling Wu-Bower will grill up a meal of two different, well-chosen meats and vegetables with the help each time of a special guest chef. John Anderes of Telegraph will be the first one on Sunday, July 8, and others who've agreed to participate later in the summer include Mathias Merges of Yusho, Michael Schrader of Urban Union, Jason Hammel of Lula and Bill Kim of Urban Belly. The barbecue will run from 3 p.m. to 8 p.m.; we're told "everything will be under $17."

Check out RIA's Gorgeous-as-Spring Menu With GM Brian O'Connor

Call it the director's commentary, although we guess the GM is more like a line producer. Anyway, we have a slideshow of eight dishes from RIA's new spring menu, which chef Danny Grant talked about yesterday in our interview, and along with them comes commentary from General Manager Brian O'Connor, expanding on Grant's devotion to showcasing local ingredients in the most luxurious and artful manner possible. Photographer Derek Richmond's pics gorgeously capture the remarkably polished stylishness of Grant's food (and dessert chef Aya Fukai's desserts, too); get ready to be hungry, and the sandwich you brought isn't going to cut it.

Sloshed: How to Drink at Weddings

Probably could've had as much as you wanted at Uncle Miltie's wedding.Photo: Hulton Archive/Getty Images

You don't get too many chances in life to take advantage of a truly open bar, one where you can order pretty much anything and know that it will cost you nothing more than a tip for the bartender at the end of the night. There's your office holiday party, maybe; art openings and cultural events if you run in those circles; a party at a rich person's house if you run in those circles; and, of course, wedding receptions. You have probably been invited to at least a couple of weddings this summer. Lucky you! Weddings are beautiful celebrations! But be careful: Profound and unlimited access to celebratory booze can drive people a little nutty, which is why we end up with train-wreck best man speeches and uncles doing that weird crouching-jumping Russian dance.

It's no mistake that The Godfather opens with a wedding. »

As Food Truck Ordinance Goes Before Council, What About... Customers?

It's kind of a shame that we've all read 10,000 stories on the food truck thing so far, because today's piece in the Sun-Times gets to the heart of it on the eve of possible big change in a way that few pieces have. There's the brick and mortar business owner who seems to think he's entitled to be free of competition ("We’re going to see a guy park his truck less than a mile away and sell food for maybe less money after we restaurant owners have spent 12, 15 years establishing an honest day’s community-based place for people to eat. How are we going to compete?") There's Glenn Keefer, frankly starting to sound a bit obsessive ("he thinks the 'elephant in the room' issue is that food truck operators and food handlers be able to show a written agreement with a building owner or management company that they can go inside and use the bathrooms of nearby buildings.") And then there are... hey, remember them?... the customers.

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B.K. Park Leaves Arami. Arami Closes Till July 10. Now What?

B.K. Park.

In a blow to Chicago's sushi scene, which is wide but hardly deep, much-admired sushi chef B.K. Park apparently quit his restaurant Arami Monday. According to Eater, Park left "for personal reasons" and co-owner Ty Fujimara shut down the restaurant until July 10 to devise a new menu more focused on the cooked foods under chef de cuisine Ervin Guinto and sous chef Scott Malloy. The reality is that Arami has always offered two distinctly different experiences— cooked food and rolls in the dining room as a whole, and Park's skills with a knife at the sushi bar. And with the restaurant planning a carryout spot focused on rolls called Arami2Go, there may have been tension between the two visions of the business. (Though it should be noted that Fujimara did shut the restaurant down rather than proceed without a star sushi chef.) Without taking anything away from the skill and quality that Guinto and Malloy et al. have displayed in the kitchen, the ranks of roll-and-grill places are a lot thicker than the ranks of first rate sushi places in Chicago, and we hope Arami can continue to serve both markets at a high level. Meanwhile, wherever Park ends up likely jumps to being among the best Asian restaurants in town. We reached out to Fujimara for comment, but calls were not returned. [Eater]

The Food World Mourns Nora Ephron

She loved good Champagne, extra dessert, and New York pastrami.Photo: Vera Anderson/WireImage

She wrote I Remember Nothing, but we, who admired, idolized, or simply enjoyed Nora Ephron, remember everything. Especially her rich and hilarious affairs with food, like the beef bourguignon via Meryl Streep and the most famous fake orgasm in the world at Katz's Deli ("I'll have what she's having!"). She said "nothing like mashed potatoes when you're feeling blue" and that the secret to life was to "marry an Italian." For those reasons and millions more, the world of food joins the universe in mourning the legendary writer, New Yorker, mother, and mentor Nora Ephron. Here's to Harry, Sally, Julie, Julia, famous meatloaf, mashed potatoes, Crazy Salad, and cool women. Hope there are "at least four desserts" in heaven for her, who deserves it all.

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