Posts for September 20, 2012

It’s a Bad-News Day for Fat Kids

As if it weren't hard enough being an obese youngster, here's news that fat kids have less sensitive taste buds than normal-weight children. In testing overweight and slim kids, German researchers found that the heavier ones had more trouble distinguishing between tastes like sour, salty, and umami. In their findings, it was unclear whether obesity diminished taste bud sensitivity or whether having less sensitive taste buds makes someone more vulnerable to weight gain. And now for even worse news: According to this new commercial, sugar isn't just making us fatter — it's killing us (like heart-disease-and-liver-disease killing us), and ... it's in 80 percent of packaged foods. Watch the depressing video below.

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Opening in Roscoe Village: Meatheads, Banh Mi & Co.

Meatheads in Roscoe Village? Or Naperville? Who can tell?

It's so rare that we get to write about our own neighborhood, Roscoe Village (or as we call it, Breakfast Village, since that's kind of what our local restaurant scene is all about). But we've got two, count 'em two openings, both chains, but small, pretty admirable ones. Meatheads, which we've had when out in Mallburbia and is an entirely respectable modern burger chain in the Five Guys/Epic/etc. subgenre of neo-retro-pomo-classical burger joints, is coming to the mall at Roscoe and Western, which instantly improves its offerings which are... so nondescript that we can't even tell you. (There might be a Wingstop.) The chain's first city location, it's having its grand opening on Monday, and it has a pretty amazing deal to commemorate it: the first 50 customers to buy something there will win a free burger a week for a year. (Gonna be a lot of burgers being eaten by the boys in blue of the 19th district, we suspect.) They open at 11.

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Today's Tony Hu Opening: Dim Sum

It was days since the last Tony Hu announcement— was he not feeling well? Had he lost his verve for conquering the entire city of Chicago with authentic Chinese food? We don't know, but Dish reports that he's going into yet another category of cuisine though not, actually, another restaurant. Huh? No, Hu! The thing is, there's apparently an empty space next to Lao You Ju, the spiffier, nightclubby place he opened in late 2010, and Hu's plan is to bust through the wall, decorate it to match... and somehow this makes Lao You Ju big enough that it can become a dim sum spot during the day. Apparently blessed with the only contractors in the restaurant biz who get things done early (his north side Lao Sze Chuan opened last week, seemingly days after it was announced), he hopes it will open yet this month. Will this finally be the really interesting, San Francisco or New York-level dim sum spot we've been waiting for? Who knows (or Hu knows), but it certainly can't hurt to have him in the category, raising the bar generally. [Dish]

How Hannah's Bretzel's Ad Guy Became a Sandwich Guy

"When I worked at Leo Burnett, I had to go out for lunch. Every time I went, I thought the options weren’t that attractive," says Florian Pfahler, explaining where the idea for Hannah's Bretzel came from. Yeah, we wouldn't know anything about that feeling. Pfahler, who had been involved with internet startups, decided to do something about it, specifically, he invented a sandwich chain that would serve the quality of meats and other ingredients he saw people like himself shopping at Whole Foods for. Rachel Gillman interviews him for NBC Chicago about his transition from ad guy to sandwich guy, and it's an interesting piece— he makes it clear that Hannah's is well thought out from a marketing and concept standpoint, but also that it comes from his genuine desire to bring the European love of quality food to America, and that's why it's succeeded as a startup food chain that's slick but sincere. [NBC Chicago]

What To Eat at Tesori, Open Now

Chef Andrew Deuel of Tesori.Photo: courtesy Tesori via Facebook

We are told that official photography of Tesori chef Andrew Deuel is forthcoming, but we have to admit we like this somewhat messy kitchen snapshot— this is a guy who's definitely working hard on his menu, like a composer at the piano surrounded by balls of wadded-up paper. Tesori is the name for the restaurant in the former Rhapsody space next to Symphony Center, which opened Wednesday, with Deuel, a veteran of Le Cirque and the Rainbow Room in New York and holder of a Masters in Italian Cuisine at the Italian Culinary Institute for Foreigners. The food will be pan-Asian... just kidding, as the menus show, it's very much Mediterranean flavors built on local ingredients. While Deuel's in the back, in the front will be Amanda Su, a longtime Lettuce Entertain You staffer involved in the growth of Big Bowl, who also worked at Custom House before joining Rhapsody in 2010. We've got lunch, dinner and desert menus below.

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‘Betrayed’ Chick-fil-A Supporters Voice Displeasure on Facebook

After yesterday's news that Chick-fil-A would stop donating to groups that oppose gay marriage, some of the people who had previously sympathized with the chain's original position have taken to its Facebook page to voice their, um, displeasure. And they're good: "You betrayed us" is the common sentiment, but a commenter named Shawn Michael really gets to the heart of this perceived reversal of values, writing, "May as well open on Sunday now." [Facebook via USAT, Earlier]

Bryce Caron Leaves Graham Elliot, Too

Bryce Caron.

As Graham Elliot was being honored by the Chicago Culinary Museum and Hall of Fame last night, he was having to deal with the loss of the highest-ranked chef in his flagship restaurant's kitchen... for the second day in a row. On the heels of Andrew Brochu exiting the kitchen on Tuesday, Bryce Caron, who joined three months ago after being let go at Blackbird, quit on Wednesday. Eater reports two sides of the story: Caron's is that he was talking about moving into Brochu's spot but that he was unhappy with the idea of the restaurant moving back to a la carte items as well as the tasting menu which had been the cornerstone of its effort to reinvent itself as a top-level fine dining spot. Elliot's is that he wasn't ready to move Caron to that spot yet and he felt piqued and quit.

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Top Chef Masters Recap: When Teens Take Over

Yeah, it's about time to wrap this season up.Photo: Isabella Vosmikova/Bravo

Well, well, well, look at Top Chef Masters shaking things up in preparation for the season finale. While past seasons have pitted three cheftestants against each other in the final battle, next week we’ll only see two of them facing off. While I’d like to be generous and say this decision was made to spare someone humiliation or make the competition feel more intense, the likely reality is that they needed to fill the ten-episode commitment that was threatened by Missy Robbins’s hand-cutting action, or they’re just taking a page from normal Top Chef. Either way: Someone got kicked off last night, and chances are you’re pretty happy about it!

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