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Last Friday we talked with L2O chef Matt Kirkley about the restaurant's tumultuous journey from three Michelin stars to one to two. Or, if you don't care about Michelin stars, about its tumultuous journey as opening chef Laurent Gras departed, Kirkley (who had been on the opening team) returned under Francis Brennan, and was ultimately promoted to the position where he could guide the restaurant back to its present state of excellence (and, he hopes, more of it in the future). Kirkley's L2O plainly ranks among the top fine dining experiences in town for the delicacy of his jewel-like seafood dishes, less Asian and more varied than under Gras, the artful and gorgeous presentation, which rarely gives away how inexpensively Kirkley has achieved his effects ("I'm a big customer at Michael's," he says), and the highly polished service in the relaxed and gracious dining room. Here's a look at what's on the menu, and a little of what's behind it in L2O's kitchen.