It wasn't billed as an international pastry-chef summit, but that's what we'd call it when a place that doesn't even have a pastry chef, per se, manages to attract stars such as Christina Tosi of Momofuku Milk Bar in New York, Rosio Sanchez of Noma in Copenhagen, and Dana Cree of Blackbird in Chicago to hang out for a night. The event was called Killing Me Sweetly, held for charity at the Trenchermen. In keeping with chef-owners' Mike and Pat Sheerin's own inclinations to blur the lines between savory and sweet, each of the star pastry chefs (plus an up-and-comer of their choice to assist) was invited to collaborate on both a sweet and a savory course. Which means this is your chance to see what dessert stars like Tosi do with something better suited to a dash of mustard than a dollop of whipped cream. Our man Huge Galdones was there last Thursday night; here's what he saw.
Before service: front-of-house staff stuffing goodie bags containing confections made by all the headlining chefs.
Trenchermen chef and co-owner Mike Sheerin, stern and focused in the kitchen.
Pastry chef Rosio Sanchez from Noma in Copenhagen.
Dana Cree (Blackbird, center) sketches out her dish for Anna Shovers (the Publican) and Christina Tosi (Momofuku Milk Bar).
Anna Shovers and Dana Cree.
Eager anticipation among the revelers at the bar of the Trenchermen.
Tosi helps the brothers Sheerin by piping some red onion yogurt for their pickled tots.
Rosio Sanchez sprays currants with rose oil before plating.
Veal heart, roasted beet, rose oil, white grapefruit, currants, nasturtium.
Tosi and Mike Sheerin.
Pickle puff pastry by Christina Tosi of Momofuku Milk Bar and Lisa Ludwinski. Served with Cuban pork butt, mustard broth, and fried shallots.
Dana Cree and Anna Shovers's rye porridge, apples, pickled onions, and crème fraîche.
The Trenchermen's own Rebecca Lamalfa's offering: braised oxtail agnolotti, celery root, and red wine sauce.
The chefs (and guests of honor bartender Jenny Kessler, center in black, and sommelier Alpana Singh, right in black).
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